Our friends from Maryland, John and Ellyn, came out to Seattle for a leisurely weeklong trip on the Gyrfalcon. There’s nothing quite as relaxing as being in a warm boat on calm seas in the winter in the PNW. Thanks to John for providing his photos of the trip to supplement mine–I apparently was not focused on photography. December 24, 2016 (Day 1: Ewing Street Moorings to Tacoma, Dock Street Marina) We left the dock at first light, which, in December in the Pacific north-wet, is not very early. Mains were on at 0800 and we were underway by 0815. We went through the small locks, and were headed through Shilshole Bay and down south by about 0900. It was a good day for wildlife viewing as it was very calm and a bit overcast.

Ford cargo spares for 1982/1999 ford cargos. Home about us shipping and policies ford cargos and spares wanted some of our new ford cargo parts.

We saw seals, belted kingfishers, Barrow’s Goldeneye, common mergansers, and double crested cormorants (or as Peter says, BEKI, BAGE, COME, and DCCO). In this part of the world, the best birdwatching on the water is in the winter. We had a pleasant trip down to Tacoma, and docked at A Dock at the Dock Street Marina. View of Tacoma from our boat As we pulled the boat in with a spring line, we realized that starboard side about midships was up against the power/utilities pedestal–it was right at the edge of the dock. The pedestal had broken loose from its base.

We felt really bad, until we took a closer look and saw that the pedestal had been repaired numerous times before, and that we had just bent one of the angle brackets used in a previous repair. While relaxing in the saloon, Ellyn spotted a belted kingfisher on a nearby boat. It was repeatedly beating its catch on the rail. None of us had seen that behavior in Kingfishers before. Note–it was overcast and late afternoon, so there wasn’t really enough light to get good photos, but it was a very cool thing seeing this kingfisher behavior.

Here are a few shots as a slide show. This slideshow requires JavaScript. The lights at night December 25, 2016 (Day 2: Tacoma, Dock Street Marina to Filucy Bay) Years ago, Peter and I had taken a similar South Sound trip (chronicled in the Guillemot blog at In going through the Tacoma Narrows, we had a total lapse in judgement which resulted in the closest we’ve come to capsizing in a boat.

For years, we have wanted to return to the South Sound, only with better knowledge and judgement. This was our opportunity. For many of you not from this area, you may be familiar with the Tacoma Narrows Bridge as Galloping Gertie, a bridge that famously disintegrated because of a harmonic vertical wave motion. There are some fantastic videos of the collapse, which many of us saw in science or math class: This day in 2016, the winds and current were calm and the trip under the bridge and through the narrows was uneventful. Wildlife viewing: We saw Barrow’s goldeneye, western grebe, horned grebe, common loon, pigeon guillemot, surf scoter, double crested cormorants, pelagic cormorants, red necked phalaropes, bald eagles, (BAGE, WEGR, HOGR, COLO, PIGU, SUSC, DCCO, PECO, RNPH, BAEA), along with a great show by sea lions fishing along the shore, and the usual harbor porpoises and harbor seals. There were also kite surfers out playing along the shore December 26, 2016 (Day 3: Filucy Bay to Swantown Marina in Port of Olympia) After a very restful night at Filucy Bay, we turned the mains on at 0945, raised the anchor at 0955, and went south through Drayton Passage. At 1200, we passed Olympia Shoal, and by 1300 we were docked at the Guest Dock at Swantown Marina.

Port side tie, bow in towards shore. Coming in, the charts, bouys, and GPS display didn’t seem to be lined up. Although we were in the middle of the channel (according to the buoys), the chart had us right at one edge.

It did not help that our depth finder had decided to take a temporary vacation – and we did not know how deep the channel actually was under our keel. As in previous days, we saw lots of wildlife: seals, bald eagles, pelagic and double crested cormorants, surf scoters, common murre, and hooded mergansers. December 27, 2016 (Day 4: Docked at Swantown Marina in Port of Olympia) We went to the capitol building, and took a tour. We had a great docent–we thought she must have been an elementary school teacher during her working years to be so good at moving people along. We asked her, and she wasn’t – just a very good guide/ Most of the time we just hung around, watching the wildlife. Female Hooded Merganser Fortunately the winds were pushing us off the dock, so it was fairly straightforward to maneuver so that we could clear the boat that had docked behind us. We headed back up the channel, toured Oro Bay, and had a great view of Mt Rainier.

We had sightings of sea lions and Bonaparte’s gulls, among the other usual wildlife sightings. Peter was excited to use his new sous vide cooker to prepare some steaks. December 29, 2016 (Day 6: Wollochet Bay to Quartermaster Harbor, Vashon Island) The next morning was cloudy but warm. We raised the anchor about 11 am and headed out during a calm day. We crossed uneventfully under the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, and headed for Quartermaster Harbor. During the day, we contacted Chris, our electronics technician, who suggested a cold reboot of the Furuno navigation system.

It worked like a charm – apparently the depth-sounder had stopped talking to the rest of the navigation system. It is impressive how addicted we become to our electronic “servants” This is one of our favorite off-season anchorages. Quiet, protected, and full of wildlife. Some of the highlights were rafts of surf scoters, western grebes, and some porpoises.

John kindly documented the state of our Markey winch, which will be the subject of the next blog. December 30, 2016 (Day 7: Quartermaster Harbor, Vashon Island, to Shilshole Marina) We started early this morning, since we had a bit of a trek and the days are short in the PNW in the winter. We had a commitment to the Audubon Christmas Bird Count for New Years Eve day, so we needed to make sure we were there on time (more about the bird count later). We had the genset on by 0730, the mains on shortly after, and were underway by 0820.

We went up the west side of Vashon Island up Colvos Passage. We docked at the end of I dock at Shilshole by about noon. Wildlife count for the day: Harbor seals, harbor porpoises, surf scoters, double crested and pelagic cormorants, western and horned grebes, red throated loons, common mergansers, and glaucous wing gull. December 31, 2016 (Day 8: Shilshole Marina to Ewing St Moorings) Christmas Bird Count The birders like to start early.

This particular pelagic bird count is organized by Wayne Palsson and has been going on since at least 2002. For more about citizen science and the Christmas Bird Count from the audubon society, see the link below. We were planning on about 8-10 birders.We ended up with twelve.

We had the generator on by 0700, and the mains on shortly afterwards. The birders started arriving at 0700, but it was too dark to leave the dock (for Nancy to see to pilot the boat, and for birders to see the birds). We ended up casting off at about 0745. Hardy birders on the Count This is what the Furuno GPS looked like after the day long observational research (as the VTS system called what we were doing). You can see how we crossed back and forth through the traffic lanes. I think we caused some consternation as the VTS folks found our course hard to predict (I did too). Thanks to the birders who helped bring the Gyrfalcon back through the locks and into our slip.

It was a fun but very long day. John, Ellyn, Peter, and I were exhausted. The next morning, all 4 of us went to the airport to go our separate ways–John and Ellyn back to the Eastern Shore of Maryland, Peter to who knows where, and Nancy back to SF for her last few days at Amgen. For the past several years, we have been going to the San Juan Islands, the Gulf Islands, and Vancouver Island BC during the week ending in Labor Day. Here’s a high level overview of our route. We end up in Victoria for the Classic Boat Show.

Our guests arrived the day before so we could get an early start: Paul G. From Michigan, Rob from the tricities area of Washington, and Paul and Erica from West Lafayette, Indiana. August 27, 2016 (Day 1: Ewing Street Moorings to Swift’s Bay, Lopez Island) We left early in the morning to beat summer crowds in the locks. We went through the small locks about 0800 and headed up the Puget Sound. We headed east of Lopez Island and up through Thatcher Pass.

About 1630, we arrived in Swift’s Bay. We used the VTS system on the way north to get more practice.

It was interesting–even though we were way out of the shipping lanes, they followed us and even wanted details about our anchorage and how many shots we had out (a shot is 90 ft of anchor rode). Shortly after we had found a good spot to anchor in Swift Bay, we got a cell phone all from Bill Scherer. He had seen us come in, and called to offer his dock. I (Peter) demurred, since I was afraid we might be too big for the dock, and we had a good anchorage. We had met Bill and his wife Miguel at LUBR over the past year – they had a ferrocement sailboat there. We had toured each others boat. They had sold the sailboat, and were spending time in their cabin on Lopez.

August 28, 2016 (Day 2: Swift’s Bay, Lopez Island to Reid Harbor, Stuart Island) The main reason we had anchored in Swift Bay was so we could go and see Ben Harry’s new farm on Lopez. We all jumped in the GFB, went over to Ben’s and got a nice tour. The Gyrfalcon at anchor in Swift’s Bay We weighed anchor at 1130 and went west through Harney Channel, through Warp Pass and North Pass. We had quite a show of orcas right off Speiden Island.

We arrived at Reid Harbor, Stuart Island in the early afternoon. In the harbor, there were river otters in the place that we’ve seen them in previous years.

Several of us went kayaking. August 29, 2016 (Day 3: Reid Harbor, Stuart Island to Glenthorne Passage, Secret Island) We started the mains at 0946, and the anchor was up by 1000. We headed out of Reid Harbor, went through Johns Pass, and cleared customs at Bedwell Harbor at 1144. By about 1300, we arrived at Secret Island.

This is an annual rendezvous put on by Curt and Marsha–they very generously open their house to neighbors and boating friends, and put on a big potluck dinner. Deerleap was anchored in the harbor, rafted to Double Eagle. We anchored a bit west of them, and stern tied to a buoy that they were also stern-tied to, to keep swing to a minimum.

It’s always amusing to see how many opinions there are about anchoring. Bread hot from the oven August 31, 2016 (Day 5: Glenthorne Passage, Secret Island to Cadboro Bay) We left Glenthorne Passage in mid-morning, and headed over to Sidney Spit, where we day anchored.

We did some kayaking and hiking on the beaches. At 1420, we weighed anchor and headed over to Cadbury Bay by way of Baynes Channel. We had never anchored here, but Slim (on Deerleap) and Randy (on Double Eagle) recommended it as a good place to anchor on the day before heading down to Victoria BC for the Wooden Boat Show. It was a cloudy day, so we got the little ceramic heater out to keep Erica warm. At the time, we didn’t realize that it was broken. No wonder she stayed cold.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES On Sunday afternoon, the show closes for a sailpast. During this event–crazy as it sounds–most of the boats leave the dock and parade out and around the Oriole of the Canadian Navy, which is the Salute vessel for the sailpast. HMCS Oriole is the sail training vessel of the Royal Canadian Navy based at CFB Esquimalt in Victoria, British Columbia. She is a sailing ketch, currently the oldest commissioned vessel in the Royal Canadian Navy. We had never done this before, as I (Nancy) was quite comfortable with docking only once. However, since Deerleap only had one functional prop, they were not going out, so we (Peter, actually, again pushing the envelope) decided it would be good for me to participate. We had our guests on board, plus Jo, Jimmy, and Dylan from the Deerleap.

That night, we had many guests on board: The guests were: Joan and Bill, Paul and Erica, Paul G, Chunyan Hu (a colleague of Peter’s from China) and her son Hao. Paul G was gracious and bunked on one of the new mattresses in the pilothouse. Everyone survived the crowded tenement-like conditions September 5, 2016 (Day 10: Victoria Harbor BC to Port Townsend) We got an early start, because we needed to arrive at Port Angeles between arrivals and departures of the ferry Coho, and we wanted to get to Port Townsend in time to wander around the town. We turned the mains on at 0610 and departed the harbor just at the break of dawn, 0645, when we could see enough to navigate the harbor.

By 0730, we were passing Constance Bank, and arrived at Port Angeles at 0947. We had never cleared customs at Port Angeles, and didn’t know anyone else who had done so, so it was a new experience. We were told to call prior to arrival, and the person who answered the phone took down all the details on the phone as we cruised into the harbor.

There was a bit of a turn getting to the dock, but the dock itself was great–it had real cleats and was plenty long for us (probably about 150 ft long). Agent Smith came down to the boat and cleared us through–he was obviously an admirer of wooden boats. Great blue heron After Port Angeles, we headed east, by McCordy Pt, and around Point Wilson, and anchored in the usual place south of the Boat Haven. We put down the GFB and most of us headed into town.

We got a great tour in the Northwest Center for Wooden Boat Building; a guy told us all about the mast that they were making for a wooden ship. September 6, 2016 (Day 11: Port Townsend to Ewing Street Moorings) The trip home from PT was uneventful–it was an excellent day. We had a smooth locking through in the large locks (port tie), then headed up the Ship Canal towards our slip. We had to stand off for a bit while a gravel barge left Lakeside Industries (a transfer point across the canal from our berth).

We docked, and our guests made their several ways home. Thus ended our 2017 Summer Season. Bill made a great video of the trip–if you want a flavor of a trip to the Victoria Wooden Boat Show, take a look at his YouTube channel. We were heading into our last week aboard the Gyrfalcon. July 17 (Day 17: East of Eden to Pierre’s at Echo Bay to Simoom Sound) We spent a leisurely morning in East of Eden, then headed up Fife Passage. We stopped in Deep Bay (loop in drawing above) to check it out. Our impression was that it wasn’t as pretty as some of the other locations we had seen.

We headed over towards Echo Bay, and waited for the plane to arrive that was bringing the guests for week 3. The guests (Jerry and Sue, and Wolfgang and Olga) were arriving on the same plane. Peter took the GFB in to pick up the guests, and I stayed on the Gyrfalcon. Our guests got some great photos of their flight over from Pt Hardy. Fish farm near the entrance to Simoom Sound We knew that we’d need to start back the next day, and the trip to Carriden Bay gave the guests some great vistas. We also took a trip to Sullivan Bay for a few more provisions and to put gas in the GFB. We visited Slim on the MV Deerleap, who was in the next bay, who told us where we might find some shrimp, so Peter and Wolfgang put out traps.

July 19 (Day 19: Carriden Bay to Lagoon Cove) Peter and Wolfgang checked the shrimp pot in the morning–4 prawn total. Good enough maybe for an appetizer. That morning, we headed out at about 1100.

Like other guests before him, Wolfgang had a favorite location–right in the pilot house, to the port or starboard side of the captain, always standing. It was great to have him aboard–he has thought a great deal about systems, and gave us some really good ideas to mull over.

He and Olga had traveled all over the world in a sailboat with 2 young kids, so he was definitely knowledgeable. We needed to be close enough to Seymour Narrows in order to arrive at slack tide, just like on the trip up. We traveled out Wells Passage, west of Polkinghorne Islets, through Salmon Channel. We entered Spring Passage between Sedge and House Islets, and then went through Night Inlet and into Lagoon Cove. We anchored about in the middle. It was a quiet and pleasant anchorage. Wolfgang and Peter put out the crab pots.

July 20 (Day 20: Lagoon Cove to Campbell River Fisherman’s Wharf, Dock C). House north of Campbell River Here’s the YouTube video, mostly using time lapse, from Lagoon Cove, through Chatham Channel, down Johnstone Strait, and to the dock at Campbell River. We needed to refill the fresh water, so we got a slip at Fisherman’s Wharf in Campbell River, at the land side of Dock C..

It was a great location to dock–just what we needed. We had had a long day–we were finally docked in our berth at 2000. The entrance was a little tricky because of the shallow spots everywhere (and the tide was a bit low), but I’m getting the hang of docking, at least in protected calm waters. July 21 (Day 21: Campbell River Fisherman’s Wharf to Clam Bay) We had a schedule to keep, because our guests had planes to catch from Seattle.

In 2 days, we needed to be a day away from our home dock, so we decided to stop in Clam Bay. We have often stayed there. It’s a large shallow bay, often with many boats anchored close in, but there’s always lots of room to anchor in the deeper areas. Whenever we’ve anchored there, it’s always been very calm. We left the dock at 0630, because we wanted to leave at high tide, due to the shallow spots right outside of the harbor.

It was a long trip down the Strait of Georgia. It wasn’t until 1730 that we were off Porlier Pass (one of the several passes that one can transit to get from the Strait of Georgia to the protected areas inside of a row of islands. We arrived at Porlier Pass a while before slack current, and waited with tugs pulling a fuel barge and a wood chip barge until the timing was right for a crossing. At last, anchored in Clam Bay. Sue, Peter, and Wolfgang in the pilothouse Going to Friday Harbor would be out of the way, so Peter strongly suggested Roche Harbor. The difference is that to get to Roche Harbor Customs Dock, one has to weave through lots of anchored boats, and usually wait for a spot before there’s room to tie up. On the other hand, Friday Harbor is less busy and it’s a clear shot to the dock from the entrance to the harbor.

Peter thinks its good for meto have a stretch goal, so we went to Roche. Just as we expected, there were lots of anchored and moored boats, and a full Customs Dock. Roche Harbor So I maneuvered to a place near the dock, and waited for a bit until someone left.

That left us with about 130 ft of dock. Which sounds like a lot, unless you’re a fairly new captain who’s never docked in tight quarters. Did I mention there was also a breeze? Well, it may be luck or it may be a modicum of skill, but I nailed it. I was pretty happy with my docking.

Customs was a bit difficult because of multinational visitors. However, Olga and Wolfgang had proper documentation, so after a bit of discussion, we were allowed back in the country.

Coincidentally, Rick Etsell happened to be on the dock working on Malibu. We were back in the US–time to take down the Canadian courtesy flag. After Customs, we headed to Reid Harbor, and anchored. Here’s a map of Stuart Island (where Reid Harbor is located) so you can get your bearings. A shore party went in for a stroll up the hill. About the best place in the world for Adirondack chairs Wolfgang had posited that we could adjust steering in the lazarette so that the autopilot didn’t over-steer (our rudder was one degree off–when the rudder indicator was 0, it would steer off course by 1 degree).

Peter and Wolfgang and I worked on it, and he was right. All we had to do was loosen a tie rod slightly, then re-tighten it. Here’s a photo of the adjustment screw. Here’s a photo of Reid Harbor at night. July 23 (Day 23: Reid Harbor to Ewing St Moorings) We got underway at 0900, and headed north of Speiden Island.

Here are some photos that show how far we’ve come since last year in our anchoring. In the past, Peter would use some rebar to get the anchor set right. Access Musical Fountain Software more. For whatever reason, it always ends up cattywampus against the hull; hence the need for rebar (if anyone knows a way to make it come up right most of the time, let us know). Anyway, last year, he and the guys at LUBR designed a gizmo to better turn the chain, and it works. So here are some images of the the anchor and the old and new way of twisting the chain. Usually there’s not this much interest in anchoring.

Either it was just exciting for our new guests, or someone had their camera date set wrong. We saw bears while kayaking, eagles on the shore and on the island, and porpoises. David gave us a great mouse cheese cutting board that he had made–complete with a mouse cheese knife. Perfect for us two veterinary pathologists! July 11 (Day 11: Anchored in Simoom Sound) This was a fun day of relaxing, kayaking, sightseeing, exploring, and fishing.

We started the morning off by heading for the end of the sound in the GFB. Butt shots The scenery from Simoom Sound to Carriden Bay was beautiful. We motored to the area around Sullivan Bay Marina. Some of the gang went ashore in the GFB, but I (Nancy) stayed on the Gyrfalcon and just drifted around. The reason for the trip was reprovisioning. Sullivan Bay has a pretty good store, so we were able to pick up the things we needed. It was a great day for wildlife: A river otter by the fish farm coming out of Simoom Sound, Pacific white sided dolphins in Sutlej Channel, harlequin ducks and sea otters on the rocks SW of Kinnaird Island.

We anchored in the middle of Carriden Bay, and relaxed. David and George put out the prawn traps across the channel. We had a good harvest.

The rock formations around Carriden Bay were fantastic–it was a fun shoreline to explore. July 13th (Day 13: Anchored in Carriden Bay) We kayaked, fished, and generally had a relaxing time during our day in Carriden Bay. I (Nancy) kayaked out to Kinnaird Island to see the sea otters.

While I was out in Grappler Sound, the wind picked up and there were 1-2 ft waves all of a sudden. It was a bit freaky being out of sight of the Gyrfalcon and out of sight of any other boat, with waves breaking over the bow of the kayak. I ended up tacking back to minimize the waves hitting the kayak broadside. All was fine in the end, but I was glad when I was back in the protected bay. Peter, David, and George did both crabbing and shrimping. David and George doing woodworking on the fish table And after the first coat of varnish (the wood slats are just support, not part of the final piece): Remember that we mentioned that Patty’s favorite place to stay was right in the passageway at the end of the galley, so no one could get?

Both George and Susan apparently agreed that it was a great location, and took up residence, while David created a concoction from leftovers for lunch. Later in the afternoon, most of us relaxed while Chef/Engineer Peter got dinner ready. David watching for the anchor This was our first foray into the less protected waters of Queen Charlotte Strait. The weather started out very calm as we headed down Wells Passage.

George took the wheel–do you think he looks happy? The wind and waves picked up when we were west of Percy Island, and we decided to tuck in behind the Polkinghorne Islands to minimize the rocking of the boat. By the time we got south of Percy Island, the fog became fairly dense as well, so we navigated carefully, looking at the charts and looking out for logs and other boats.

South of Polkinghorne Islands, we saw a humpback whale in Nowell Channel! First sighting of a large cetacean on the trip. Because of the waves and the lack of visibility in Queen Charlotte Sound, we turned back east at Trainer Passage, which is south of Eden Island and north of Crib Island. The scenery was beautiful. Lots of small islands and pretty bays. After passing north of Crib Island, we turned south into Spiller Passage between Morrow and Hudson Islands on the west, and Mars Island on the east. Spiller Passage opens up to Arrow Passage.

We turned east and headed around the top of Bonwick Island to Waddington Cove. The weather forecast was for gusty winds, and we heard that this cove was well protected. Susan on Log Watch Duty We also saw a First Nations settlement on the east side (Health Bay Reservation on Gilford Island), and saw some working and pleasure vessels. We then turned west through Spring Passage. By 0900, we were north of the House Islet, just starting to enter Queen Charlotte Strait.

From there, it was a fairly quick trip down to Alert Bay, on Cormorant Island, where we anchored in the northwest corner. We were back in civilization, after several days with no cell phone coverage. As we were coming in to Alert Bay, we saw a very large cruise ship making its way up the inside passage (a sure indication that there will be cell towers nearby). We took the GFB into town and wandered around.

Which is old: the nurses or the residence? Some of the boats in the harbor make the Gyrfalcon look in top shape! There were interesting totem poles at the ‘Namgis Burial Ground (generations of Kwakwaka’wakw Chiefs and family leaders). At the old harbor, a young girl braved the cold water to go swimming.

We returned to the boat for our last evening with our Portland guests. July 16 (Day 16: Alert Bay to East of Eden) On July 16th, our second set of guests were set to return home. They had scheduled a float plane to take them to Port Hardy, where they had left their car. The float plane was a no-show, so they decided to wait for the ferry. It took us awhile, but we all finally realized that the ferry they were waiting for was going to the same place that we were traveling to in the GFB for reprovisioning–Port McNeill (a relatively big town on Vancouver Island).

We could reprovision for week 3, and the Wisdoms and Bealls could get where they needed to go. It was about 6 nautical miles from Alert Bay to Port McNeill, and was fairly pleasant in the GFB. From the dock in Port McNeill, Peter and I walked to a grocery and liquor store, and David, Susan, George, and Patty took a taxi from Port McNeill to Port Hardy (about 20 miles). Nancy perched on the luggage Some photos taken as the Portlanders made their way back south. After our guests were set, Peter and I wandered around Port McNeill, stocking up on wine and food (in that order). We took the GFB back to the Gyrfalcon, and decided to head out to an anchorage closer to Pierre’s, where the next guests were flying in the following day. The wildlife was good–we saw Pacific white-sided dolphns, red-necked phalaropes, Dall’s porpoises, red-necked Grebes, sea lions, parasitic jaegers, and Bonaparte’s Gulls.

We headed up north, past Bonwick and Mars Islands, and into Fife Sound north of Eden Island. Just south of the northwest end of Eden Island, there is an anchorage called East of Eden. It was a great location–beautiful scenery, very few boats, and quiet. We had bought a hummingbird feeder in Port McNeill, and put it out to see if we might attract a few. It turns out we were in a perfect location for Rufous hummingbirds. We spent a quiet night, and got up the next day to head towards Pierre’s.

This is a long (almost a year) overdue series of blogs. A lot has happened. I (Nancy) had been transferred to San Francisco in the beginning of 2016 when my employer closed up shop in Seattle. Trying to work in SF and maintain the boat in Seattle was challenging. Even so, we managed to get in a few great trips, but with Peter traveling a lot for work, and keeping a footprint in 2 cities, we didn’t have much time for nonessentials. A few months ago, I took a position back in Seattle, and we’re getting settled back in and starting to catch up on long overdue boat maintenance.

But more about that later. For now, we’ll catch everyone up on the 2016 mid-summer cruise to the Broughtons. Here’s a screen capture of the general plan for the trip. During weeks 1 and 3, we traveled in the oblong oval, and during week 2 we were up in the circled area. I’ve also put screen captures for each day’s travels. They’re only as accurate as my finger was on the mouse pad, so don’t examine them too closely or take the routes too literally. Cruising to the Broughtons has been a goal of ours.

Our boating friends (who all seem to have more vacation time than we do) have been extolling the virtues of the Broughtons for years. This year, we managed to string three weeks together, and we were Broughton-bound. As in past years, we had 2 couples per week traveling with us (fly in/fly out on float planes). Unlike last year, we added one day of just Nancy/Peter time between each week. It kept us more sane and allowed us to enjoy our company more. Only one thing stood in the way of getting to the Broughtons–the narrows and the rapids.

Because of these challenging navigational areas on the way to the Broughtons, I attended a seminar from Mark Bunzel at Waggoner’s to prepare me for the trip. Here’s a link to this year’s seminars: I highly recommend the course. The one I took was 2 days (it was pretty crazy–fly from SF to Seattle, drive to Mt Vernon, take the course, drive back to the boat, and fly out the next Monday for work), but well worth the time and money. Based on that course, I planned and calculated, and replanned our timing so that we would transit the rapids at slack tide. It was especially important to plan carefully because we just happened to be going through the narrows on the day of the month with the biggest current. We were going through on July 4th.

Max current on that day was up to 15 kts. Note that our boat doesn’t go that fast. Here are the relevant pages from Ports and Passes, a very valuable book for this part of the world. Circled time is slack tide on July 4th.

Columns on right indicate max flood and ebb currents All of the calculations indicated that we needed to be at Gowlland Harbor south of Seymour Narrows for a very early transit (0505-0530) It meant for some long days at the beginning, but it also allowed us to maximize time in the Broughtons. Thanks as always to our guests for providing many of the great photos of this trip. July 1, 2016 (Day 1: Ewing St to Port Townsend) We left Ewing St Mooring at about noon on Friday, July 1st. Our guests for the first week were Vito, Tracy, and Jessica and Tom. The weather was great. We went through the large locks and headed up north. Our plan was to be in a position to get to Bedwell early the next morning to clear Canadian Customs.

We anchored off south of the Boat Haven, south of the main part of Port Townsend. Beautiful sunset in Gowlland Harbor. We made a run into Campbell River on the GFB and found all the essentials: a grocery story and wine and liquor. One can never predict the alcoholic intake of guests. Over the trip, Vito and Tracy and Tom and Jessica spent many hours discussing wine clubs and various drink concoctions.

I think talking about drinking makes one want to drink more! It was an early night, since the next day would be our trip through Seymour Narrows. July 4, 2016 (Day 4: Gowlland Harbor to Lagoon Cove).

Entire day’s voyage We got up at 0230. Mains and generator were on by 0245, and by 0300 we were motoring out of Gowlland Harbor. Tom, Peter, and Vito were on log watch with spotlights.

We motored very slowly until we were clear of the harbor. The current was about 4.3 kts, and it slowed us to about 3 kts, until we went closer to shore, folloiwng a tug pulling a barge up ahead. Peter and Tom went inside, but Vito was a trooper and stayed on log patrol. By 0422, we were in the bay east of Yellow Island.

We stayed there for a little while, along with the tug. About 15 minutes later, the tug pulled out and went through and we followed behind, motoring towards the light at Maud Island, and into the Narrows. Ripple Rock is in the middle of Seymour Narrows. In the past, Ripple Rock had had been a hazard to navigation, as the top of the rock was just 9 feet below the waterline, capsizing ships and also creating incredible eddies that would also sink ships. Since the late 1800s, over 100 ships have sunk or been damaged, and as many people have lost their lives.

In the 1940s, a few attempts were made to lower the peak of Ripple Rock, but they were unsuccessful. Finally, in the 1950s, the top of the rock was blasted off. Check out this video of the engineering feat.

Uneventful trip over Ripple Rock The narrows was very calm. Jessica made an appearance, looked around, and went back below to get more sleep. We stayed to the east side of the channel along North Bluff, and by 0630, we were off Turn Island. We were famished. We ate our second or third breakfast. Some of us got to take a nap. Insert from Peter: Nancy had been worried about the Narrows for months.

She took the Waggoner course, and calculated and recalculated our exact time for safe transit on a weekly basis all though the Spring. When we finally reached the rapids, her calculations were spot-on, we transited without any issues.

Ten minutes in, she turned to me and said, “This is boring. Here, you take the wheel. I’m going to make myself an English Muffin.” She had nailed it! Crab cooking I slept like a log. We had made it through the Narrows! We ended up spending an extra day in Lagoon Cove, exploring by GFB.

While we were in Lagoon Cove, we had time for some projects. Tracy and Peter wired a 110v receptacle for the computer in the pilothouse. Like every other project on the boat, it took three times as long as expected to figure out the best route for the wire to take under the pilot house, pull the wire and then mount the receptacle. Everything went well, and we now have a dedicated outlet for the computer next to the helm station. July 5 (Day 5: Anchored at Lagoon Cove) It was a relaxing day–kayaking, cooking, basking, drinking, crabbing, and other cruising activities. We had our first opportunity to use our new aluminum boarding ladder–a great success.

It’s now easier for all to get in and out of the GFB and kayaks. Jacqueline–you can still get in and out whatever way you want, although we have retired the rope ladder.

Here are some photos of the day. We saw Pacific white-sided dolphins everywhere around Doctor Islets at low tide. We went up Tribune Channel, south of Kumlah Island, and passed Irvine Point and Miller Point to arrive at Kswatsi Bay at noon. We anchored in about 100 ft of water. We took the GFB to the dock and talked to our friends that we had met previously at Lagoon Cove. Then several of us took kayaks over to the waterfall and hiked up.

Wildlife for the day: Along with the usual birds, we also saw Dall’s porpoises, the dolphins already mentioned, marbled murrulets, and lots of seals. All in all a pleasant day. Three Bird Log July 7, 2016 (Day 7: Kwatsi Bay to Simoom Sound) The next day was a leisurely trip from Kwatsi Bay to Simoom Sound. Several of our boating friends had highly recommended Simoom Sound, so we decided to check it out. It did not disappoint.

We left Kwatsi Bay and went past Echo Bay to Simoom Sound, anchoring right in the middle of a cove next to McIntosh Bay. We were in about 80-100 ft of water depending on tide (20 ft tides in this part of the world), with about 140 ft of anchor rode out. We saw ravens, eagles, and lots of fish. There was lots of kayaking, fishing, and relaxing.

Vito kayak-fished with a fly rod and was quite successful. Others fished off the stern of the Gyrfalcon.

The fish were biting like crazy. We didn’t keep any fish, as they were mostly small and we weren’t sure if we were in a rockfish protection area. Tom and his catch The scenery was beautiful. I was determined to finish one project: We had purchased 2 whole house water filter housings. Our plan was to use those in tandem when we had to take on water that was somewhat questionable in the Broughtons. I had bought various PVC fittings and glue, and just needed some time to put them together. Here are a few photos of the pieces and parts, and me putting them together.

More on this during part 2 of this blog series. Nothing much else to say about that day at Simoom Sound.

It was breathtakingly gorgeous. We understood why our boating friends were so hooked on the Broughtons.

July 8 (Day 8: Simoom Sound to Pierre’s at Echo Bay) We did a bunch of kayaking and fishing in the morning in Simoom Sound. Vito and I saw sea lions near the rocky islands, one with a salmon. Success with proper anchor placement At Pierre’s at Echo Bay, we were coming into the assigned dock, just about to make the turn into the dock (see red line in photo below), when the person on Pierre’s radio said: Wait, what’s your tonnage? I picked up the radio and replied: 167 tons, to which he replied: New docking plans–go to the last dock (see blue arrow). Now, to non-boaters, this may not be a big deal, but for me (Nancy), switching plans in mid course, AND operating the radio AND docking the boat without major stress was a big deal, and was a confidence-builder. Teal heading out We ended up staying in the cove for 2 nights before heading over to Genoa Bay, on Vancouver Island.

While we were there, we decided to accept patina. Instead of sanding down the interior of all of the doors and refinishing them properly, we decided to take a halfway step: take all the paint drips off, sand down the rough spots, and layer on a few coats of varnish. This actually greatly improved the appearance, and was a good stop-gap measure. The gap that’s being stopped might extend several years. Paul and Erica coming back from kayaking Peter managed to damage his back hauling lines going through the locks, and his injury didn’t respond to conservative treatment. He ended up on the surgeon’s table in December, but somehow managed to recover enough for our next trip: The Christmas Bird Count: We have been providing the platform for the pelagic Christmas Bird Count in Seattle for a few years now. Basically, we take the boat out to Shilshole Marina the evening before the day of the bird count.

Our intrepid bird counters plus bird nerd wannabes come on the boat at 0 dark 30, and we head out on a prescribed course that has been followed for the past 20 years. We count the birds that we see, and add them to the tallies of all the other Christmas Counts in the Seattle count. We’ve had about 15 people aboard each of the past few years. The new AIS unit With upgrades to the boat, work travel for Peter, and with Nancy based in San Francisco for her job, we didn’t have much chance for weekend trips so far in 2016. However, last weekend, we went to the Bell Street Classic Boat Weekend and had a blast.

More firsts for us: First time going out through the Large Locks by ourselves. First time into Bell Street Marina by ourselves (it’s a tight entrance) First time time inbound through the locks with just us 2 (small locks) We (Gyrfalcon, Peter, and Nancy, that is) were featured on a local Seattle early morning television show. We had more than 750 people tour the boat over 2 days. After the public has seen all the boats, they get to vote for a People’s Choice Award. This year, Gryfalcon won! And now we’re less than one week away from heading north. Destination: The Broughton Islands.

Stay tuned for more adventures. Desolation Sound We also thought those of you not familiar with this area might want the big picture of where we’ve been. Here’s another Google Maps screen capture from Seattle up to Desolation Sound (Desolation Sound roughly between Campbell River and Refuge Cove, and our home base in Seattle on the lower right of the map). Saturday, July 11, 2015. We woke up to rain – all day.

Regardless, Nancy circumnavigated the little island in the middle of the bay via kayak (it was high tide), and tried her hand at a jellyfish video (inspired by Jacqueline’s efforts earlier in the trip). She agrees that it’s a skill that needs more practice. This was the changeover day. Week 2 guests were leaving and Week 3 guests were arriving. We left the Gyr at 9:15 am with the Wisdoms to get to Refuge Cove in time to pick up Randy and Peggy – who had flown over on a floatplane from Campbell River. This was our second trip to Refuge cove, so we knew the drill.

Randy and Peggy were good at photographic documentation (a much appreciated attribute in our guests), so we’ll use their photos to show you Refuge Cove, albeit in the rain. The dock on the left is where the float plane lands. The shed on the right is where David left his ukelele. I had asked Randy to bring some chicken, since we had not been able to bring any across the Canadian border at the beginning of the trip – due to concerns about avian influenza. Randy had bought chicken in Campbell River at the Walmart – we grilled it that night for dinner.

The Wisdoms’ plane didn’t leave for a couple of hours, so they bought souvenirs and had a snack at Refuge Cove. David put his ukulele in a dry shack on the seaplane dock for safekeeping. When he got back to Seattle, he realized the uke was still in Refuge Cove. A flurry of emails ensued, and he and his uke were eventually reunited. Back in Tenedos Bay, it was too wet to hike or swim or kayak.

Unfortunately for Randy and Peggy, it was supposed to stay that way all weekend. But the rain was good for the area–it has been a very dry summer. So Peter did what he does very well–channeled Tom Sawyer and got Randy to polish brass. Sunday, July 12, 2015. Tenedos Bay to Pender Harbor (via Little Bull Passage).

We left early, hoping to catch some sun farther south. We cruised for most of the day. South of Texada Island and west up to Little Bull Passage In the afternoon, we decided to anchor in Little Bull Passage off Jedidiah Island southwest of Texada Island. To maneuver to the anchorage, Nancy was turning the boat in the harbor by reversing the port engine and putting the starboard engine in forward, with the rudder over to port. Despite this approach, the stern of the Gyrfalcon seemed to be rapidly approaching the rocky shore (and some alarms began to beep loudly). Thinking that the boat was being pushed by some local currents towards the rocks, Nancy tried to turn more rapidly, giving more reverse engine on the port side, and more forward starboard engine. To no avail–the rocks got even closer.

At this point, we glanced at the tachometer in the pilothouse and realized that the starboard engine was not responding to the throttle–basically, we just had one engine in reverse, and one in neutral. Long story short–the alarms indicated that the starboard actuator was dead, and we had no way to control the starboard engine from the bridge. The actuator is a box in the engine room that transforms the electrical impulses from the control unit in the pilot house into mechanical activity.

One part of the actuator controls the clutch in the transmission, and the other part controls the throttle on the engine. Here you can see the actuator (upper center) with the cables running down to the transmission and the throttle (lower right) for the starboard engine. After we realized that we could get out to the middle of the larger bay between Boho Bay and Little Bull Passage, and manage to stay in one spot, Peter called Ben at LUBR (Lake Union Boat Repair), and tried to figure out what was wrong.

As Peter was checking to see if the transmission for the starboard engine was hotter than the port (it was), the engine decided to make itself clear and overheated, and spewed hot antifreeze into the engine room. Peter managed to quickly turn off the engine, and then discovered that the fan belt on the impeller pump (required to pump raw seawater to keep the engines cool) had come off its pulley. Total disaster. In any case we were down to one engine. This is probably something we should have found out before–how well does the boat do on one engine. We now know: the boat steers well in forward and cruises at around 7.5 knots, but does not back well at all. It was a very tense day for both Nancy and me, but we worked well under the pressure.

Randy and Peggy were very understanding as we tried to figure stuff out. We all read manuals together and tried to diagnose the problems. Being that all 4 of us are veterinarians, diagnosing was something we felt comfortable doing (Of course, Peter and Randy, being anatomic pathologists, can only diagnose things after they are dead. On the other hand, Peggy and Nancy, being of a more clinical bent, can diagnose while the patient is still living).

We considered our anchorage options should we need repairs before returning to Seattle, and decided to backtrack and limp back to Pender Harbor, a protected anchorage where we anchored in Hospital Bay for the night (all the marinas were full). Our anchorage in Pender Harbor Monday, July 13, 2015 – Pender Harbor to Nanaimo. Randy woke us up – even though we had not dragged anchor, somehow during the night we slipped between 2 small boats tied to moorings.

I think that Randy had been up most of the night, re-reading the manual for the controller system and actuators, trying to figure out what went wrong. We still can’t figure out how the boat had shifted. Perhaps we had a lot of chain lying on the shallow floor of the bay, and during the night, the chain uncoiled and we moved. From Pender Harbor, across the Strait of Georgia, to Nanaimo We left Pender Harbor at 5:30 am, since we were awake and it seemed to make sense to get to some place with more repair facilities where we could get help if we needed it. Besides, we were in a much calmer state in the morning (5 on a scale of 0-10 where 0 is totally freaked, and 10 is a zen-like state) compared to the night before (2 on the same scale). The Strait of Georgia had just a small amount of chop and wind – a little lumpy but not too bad.

We got to Nanaimo early, so there was plenty of room to anchor. We set the anchor two times, and finally got to a place where we (1) could swing freely and not hit other boats and (2) would not need to back up to get off the anchorage in the morning.

We sent Randy and Peggy off to kayak and hike on Newcastle Island. Randy and Peggy kayaked and explored the area Nancy and I reset the anchor twice more before we were happy. By now, enough time had passed since the disaster of Sunday afternoon that I (Peter) felt ready to tackle the engine problem. I took the protective shroud off the starboard engine, and discovered that we had actually lost 2 belts.

One of the alternator belts had broken, and the impeller belt was off of its pulley but intact. I replaced the impeller belt, and it showed no signs of wear – nor had the tension on the pulley slipped. The only explanation that we could come up with was that, when the smaller alternator belt broke, the loose end of the belt got wedged under the impeller belt and lifted it off the pulley. Without the impeller belt, the engine rapidly overheated. I have no idea how this related to the actuator failure.

My guess is that after the actuator failed, we manually moved the transmission from forward to reverse rapidly many times in an attempt to regain control, and that stress may have caused an already compromised belt to break. Fortunately, the actuator is designed so that when it fails, it automatically goes into neutral to prevent further disasters (hence the lack of control–starboard engine in neutral when we thought it was in forward–in the initial panic in Little Bull Passage). We also learned that you can manually control the transmission/throttle from the engine room, but it is not as smooth as using the controls in the pilot house. In any case, I replaced the belts, put the shroud back and started the engine. It ran smoothly and cool, and the transmission pressure was normal. This was one of the happiest moments of my life.

I had fixed the problem, and we did not have to rebuild the transmission (Ben had gotten a quote for around $25,000 for a rebuild.) After Peter solved most of the engine problems, we went onto Newcastle Island and took a hike to the lake. Several folks from the Canadian CYA came over to visit us in the afternoon. Boston Whaler full of Canadian CYA members Later in the afternoon, a fellow came by in a small boat and set some crab pots. I asked him if this was a good spot (we had not had too much luck with crabs on this trip), and he said this was his secret spot – totally reliable, and that if he was planning a crab feast, this was the spot he came to. We had heard this kind of fish story before, but we set our traps anyway.

Randy and Peggy came back raving about what a cute town Nanaimo was. The four of us took the GFB into Nanaimo for dinner. There are a lot of nice restaurants in Nanaimo, but by the time we arrived, most of them had closed. Fortunately, an Indian restaurant was still open. Tuesday, July 14, 2015 – Nanaimo to Sidney Spit.

First thing in the morning, Randy, Nancy, and I went out to check our crab traps – we had 14 keepers. I now swear by local knowledge! Here are some photos of the experience. Nanaimo to Sidney Spit–a beautiful cruise We left Nanaimo in the morning, went on the eastern (outside) of the Gulf Islands, came back into the Gulf through Porlier Pass at slack and then cruised on to Sidney Spit, one of our favorite anchorages in the Gulf Islands. The anchorage is wide and shallow.

There are always lots of boats close to shore, since it is so close to the town of Sidney, but we tend to anchor deeper, so we seldom have close neighbors. Randy and Peggy took the kayaks and explored the island for most of the afternoon.

Crab Feast in the Pilothouse Wednesday, July 15, 2015 – Sidney Spit to Reid Harbor, Stuart Island. Today we had to re-enter the United States. We were still anxious because we felt disabled with only one engine, and were not sure how much control we would have when docking.

The closest Port of Entry was at Roche Harbor on San Juan Island. Nancy called them on the phone and explained our situation. They responded that they had a half dozen boats in line, and that it would not calm down until late in the afternoon, and that if we were disabled, we should call Vessel Assist to tow us into customs. They suggested we go to Friday Harbor (halfway around the island), since they are generally less busy. That turned out to be great advice – not only did we get in with minimal waiting, but the Customs dock is long and we had it to ourselves. We left Sidney Spit, passed by Roche Harbor (on the north end of San Juan Island, went to Friday Harbor, and backtracked up to Reid Harbor, Stuart Island Just north of Roche Harbor, we experienced some amazing currents.

We can be cruising along with hardly any current, and then suddenly enter an area where the water is almost boiling, and where it moves the 167-ton Gyrfalcon around as if it were a toy. It’s hard to show that in a photo, but maybe these give you some idea of the currents and chop. Boiling water north of Roche Harbor Customs is funny.

They generally don’t want anyone off the boat until the captain has cleared customs. With our issues, I hopped off the boat to tie the spring line, so that Nancy could bring the boat in on one engine. A sailor who was moored across from the Customs Dock came over and helped me with lines. Nancy did an absolutely superb job of bringing the boat right to the dock. As I was tying off the lines, I looked over and saw that the (crippled) starboard engine was actually in gear rather than neutral, and was pushing the boat forward.

The mark for neutral on the actuator is not correct – and you can’t tell when the boat is underway if the propeller is turning or not, so instead of coasting in the dock, we were actually making around 2 knots. After we turned the engine off, and I told her what had happened, Captain Nancy responded, “I thought there was a strong current today.” She is definitely getting this captain thing down.

The Customs Agent – Agent Heater – watched us dock. Afterwards she apologized for not helping (she had heard about our predicament), but explained that agents are not allowed to touch a boat (liability). She said, “I’ve been around boats all my life. That was a beautiful docking.” Captain Nancy is still beaming.

Peggy and Randy with Reid Harbor in the background After Randy and Peggy were in their kayaks, Nancy took off with her camera in one kayak, and I followed her a few minutes later. I found her close to shore. She motioned me to come over quietly. She had found a family of river otters. The mom had caught a Dungeness crab, and was feeding it to her pups. It was very cool to see, and even though the light was very dim, Nancy managed to get some great shots.

After that, we paddled around the bay. We checked out an old wooden boat there, and talked to the owners. It turned out that the owner had been a mate for Bob Jacobson on the DuPont Dynamite boat in the early Seventies. Jacobsen, when he wasn’t delivering dynamite to Alaska for DuPont, was also the owner of the Gyrfalcon at that time. Once again, wooden boats are a small world. And then there was the DuPont connection–Randy currently works at DuPont, and Nancy worked there before moving to Seattle.

There were also lots of belted kingfishers and the typical harbor seals. And then it was back to the boat for a little R&R, at least for Nancy. The inset gives details about Port Townsend. We’ve come full circle. During our first day out on this trip, we had collected provisions from Island Fresh, which is on Marrowstone (one of the islands to the east of the PT anchorage) We had decided in the last few days to slow the itinerary because of the engine trouble, but to still enjoy the trip. Although we have often made it between Stuart Island and Seattle in one day, we decided to break the trip up this time. We made a relatively short run to Port Townsend.

We anchored in our usual spot off from Haven Boat Works, and spent the afternoon visiting Port Townsend (Peggy and Randy), talking to the Haven Boatworks folks (Peter and Nancy) and generally relaxing. We had a last farewell dinner on the Gyr, and a beautiful sunset. The final leg from Port Townsend to Seattle The locks are never easy – on a “normal” weekend, you sometimes have to wait an hour or more for your turn through. In addition, there are always currents that push the boat backwards and sideways. Our last few days had given us greater understanding of how to handle the boat with only one fully functional engine. The first thing we did was radio the lock keepers and explain that we had limited maneuverability, and requested the small locks.

Under normal conditions, a non-commercial boat is not supposed to contact the locks, but we did it as a courtesy call, hoping that they’d understand that our limited maneuverability would make the large locks difficult. The small locks are much easier to maneuver through compared to the large locks, even with a fully functional boat.

The lockmaster told us that they would accommodate us, but we would have to wait until they were through with a full load in the large locks. The problem was trying to keep the boat facing towards the locks and not drifting over towards the outflow of the large locks (where big ships were about to exit). With one engine in reverse, the boat pulled strongly to starboard, so the result of jockeying back and forth was to move closer and closer to the path coming out of the large locks. After Nancy tried for a bit to keep the boat in the right location, I went down into the engine room where I could control the starboard engine manually. (After the Customs experience, I had marked the spot where neutral actually was with a Sharpie.

Remember the N in the photo of the actuator). This was our system: Nancy would call a command out (Reverse, low rpms) to Randy who was standing at the Pilot house door, to Peggy who was standing at the top of the engine room, to me who was at the controls. It was a lot like the game of telephone, with the added excitement of the noise of the engines making it difficult for me to hear.

We got the commands right almost all of the time. I yearned for the days when the boat had a speaking tube and a telegraph in the engine room. Ladder looking up from the engine room After 40 minutes or so of jockeying for position, we were called into the small locks (where there were about 4-6 guys with long boat hooks, just in case). It turned out that we didn’t need any special help; we locked through with no trouble. We had called LUBR to tell them of our arrival time, and when we got close to LUBR (just west of the Ballard Bridge) we pulled into the linear dock.

It’s a starboard tie facing west, requiring turning 180 degrees to come into the dock, and there was a bit of wind, but the docking was flawless. Ben said to Nancy: ” You used to just drive this boat. Now, you’re a captain”. Our July 2015 journey was now officially over. We have to give a special shout out to our friends Peggy and Randy.

They are not boat people, and really came along for a relaxing cruise. We’re certain that this trip was not what they expected, but they were real troopers: they rose to the occasion and were a real help during this, our first real trial about the Gyrfalcon, as well as being great guests/friends and providing many of the photographs for this blog. Community Corrections Policy Manual Bct15x. And Peter learned Peggy’s technique in making delicious breakfast burritos. In the end, we think they still had a good time.

Thanks, guys. POSTSCRIPT: It turned out that the actuator failed because a $6 potentiometer burned out. Here’s Mark from LUBR taking the offending actuator off the boat for repair.

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